Why AHAs Are The Secret To Youthful Looking Skin, According To Experts

Skin looking a little lacklustre? It’s time to introduce some AHAs into your skincare routine. Ideal for reducing the appearance of fine lines and pigmentation as well as targeting uneven texture and breakouts, they’re the key to gorgeous, glowing skin. But don’t just throw them in anywhere; in fact, use them in conjunction with another active ingredient and you might be worse off than you started. Here’s what you need to know.

What are AHAs in skincare?

AHAs, otherwise known as Alpha Hydroxy Acids, are types of acids that can be either naturally occurring or synthetic, usually derived from sugary or citrus fruits. They come in all sorts of products: cleansers, moisturisers, serums, toners, and can solve a myriad of skincare concerns from pigmentation and acne to uneven texture, fine lines, and the stimulation of collagen production. “AHAs are generally quite gentle depending on strength, especially in clinic treatments,” says skin expert Teresa Tarmey. “They’re great for anti-ageing, brightening and can even help with pigmentation. They’re good for at-home use too.”

What do AHAs do to your skin?

A gold standard ingredient for all things anti-ageing, AHAs work on the surface of the skin. “They exfoliate the skin and help improve skin tone and texture,” says facialist Keren Bartov. “They also reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and pigmentation and age spots.” Popular AHAs include lactic, mandelic and glycolic acid.

What’s the difference between BHAs and AHAs?

While AHAs are water soluble, BHAs are soluble in oil. “This means they can penetrate deep into the pores and remove dead skin cells and excess sebum, making them ideal for oily skin or skin that is prone to breakouts, bumps, or clogged and enlarged pores,” says Bartov. Generally speaking, AHAs are more suited to anti-ageing and brightening, while BHAs such as salicylic acid are better for blemish-prone skin.

Is it OK to use AHAs every day?

As is the case with most active ingredients, overuse can lead to skin irritation. “I’m not a fan of overusing acids,” says Tarmey, “It also depends on the client’s skin type and strength of the acid.” As a general rule, start slow; use it every two to three days and gradually increase your frequency of use as your skin adjusts.

What should I avoid when using AHAs?

There are a few things to bear in mind when using AHAs. The first is SPF. “When using any acids on the skin, you need to ensure you wear an SPF, every day, and not just in the summer, but all year round,” says Diane Ackers, skin expert for Doctors Formula Cosmeceuticals. “The skin needs this additional layer of protection, specifically with acid use as you’re removing the outer layers of dead skin cells and exposing healthy, new and delicate skin.” As a general rule, most experts recommend an SPF of 30 or higher, increasing to 50 in the summer months. In fact, if you are going on holiday to a particularly sunny destination, Ackers recommends switching your AHA for a lower percentage, and only using it at nighttime.

You’ll also want to avoid using additional exfoliating products, chemical or mechanical scrubs as over-exfoliation can damage the skin, cause inflammation and irritation/redness. “You can use AHAs and retinols in combination,” says Bartov. “But I’d strongly suggest getting your prescription of products from a skin expert before you combine these actives or you could end up damaging your skin. Your skin expert will tell you the right products to use in the right concentration and tell you how to use them in the right order.”